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Where we do it > Eritrea - John and Janet MellorAn extra glass of wine on a Sunday afternoon gave John and Janet Mellor the courage to think beyond a conventional retirement. From September 2004 to July 2006 they taught chemistry and French at Eritrea’s only university in the capital Asmara. Here they share their experiences of a perfect climate, dedicated students and erratic electricity supplies…What made you decide to volunteer?
Janet: John had the idea. I was feeling fairly neutral, but as he became progressively enthusiastic, I decided that I would go too, provided that we could both be found jobs in the same location. I didn’t want to go as an accompanying partner.
What did your roles involve?
Janet: My role was simply teaching beginners French to undergraduate students. They were learning on a voluntary basis alongside their other specialist studies. It was a pleasure to teach them. John: Teaching Chemistry undergraduates - very agreeable and stress free. I was also supervising and teaching postgraduate students. This was very challenging as these were the first Masters students the country has produced. Finding research topics with minimal equipment was a further challenge. As all the students safely graduated and hugely enjoyed their work, I found the experience most rewarding.
What kind of challenges did you face?
Janet: My worst nightmare was to be in a room with 100 students and absolutely no resources. And, sure enough, when I arrived, 178 students had volunteered for my course, there was one textbook and all the photocopying facilities in the University were out of action. So I taught the first six weeks with no resources other than the blackboard, and in the second six weeks, the University, nay, the whole country, was out of A4 paper. You just have to do the best you can, and not to fear the worst. The students and other teachers are used to these circumstances.
How did you adapt to life in another country and culture?
John: I was fascinated to be able to observe a totally new culture and have the opportunity to learn about this strange country. Janet: As we were living as a couple in a flat by ourselves, little adaptation was required as far as domestic conditions were concerned. Water shortages got me a little panicky, but we never ran out totally. Gas was always in short supply, but fortunately VSO had supplied us with a kerosene stove. Electricity was frequently cut off. But these things one can bear.
How did you find the food?
Janet: If you live in a town delicious vegetables and a reasonable range of fruit is available. Meat isn’t nice so we ate mainly vegetarian (lentils and other pulses, eggs, cheese). Food in a village is much more limited, and you must be prepared for a very boring diet. It’s a brilliant way to lose weight though. John: I like hot Indian food and Eritrean food isn’t dissimilar, so I enjoyed it very much.
And what was the climate like?
John: The Eritrean climate was near perfect. Having returned to the UK, it’s a pleasant memory.
What did you miss most about home?
Janet: I found my work so interesting and rewarding that I didn’t really miss home very much. But it was nice to return to bacon, sausages, meat pies and biscuits! John: Grandchildren. Season ticket watching Southampton at football. A church community. However, we did return home every six months.
And what didn't you miss about home?
John: It was nice to remove ourselves from modern Britain, and a little sad to return to find that life here if often trivialised by a false sense of values. In many ways I found that Eritreans have a better understanding of true happiness.
What were your favourite things about Eritrea?
Janet: The people. It was also fascinating to observe the political scene, which is something you can do in a small country. John: Cycling in the early morning to work alongside the horse and carts. The climate and the constant sun. Eritrean friends, who had suffered terribly but had a wonderful integrity. I now miss the students who were incredibly hardworking and dedicated. The teaching was a great experience.
Tell me about volunteering as a couple. Was it useful to have someone to share everything with?
John: Our lives were so rich in incidents that it was invaluable to have a nightly post-mortem - much better than any television soap! Janet: We probably talked more to each other while we were in Eritrea than at any other stage in our life together. Volunteers who are single need to be happy in their own company, not prone to loneliness – and fond of reading!
How far did the reality of volunteering match your expectations?
John: Probably better. I enjoyed the contact with students more than I’d expected. They were more hardworking than typical university students in England. Many Eritreans were so dignified in the midst of their problems that it was more rewarding than I had expected to appreciate their lives. Janet: It did: we were both doing the job that was expected of us: we both had an accurate job-description beforehand. I think that this is important: it can be demoralizing to find, on arrival in-country, that the job is not what you expected.
What did you leave Eritrea with?
Janet: A greater understanding of conditions in Eritrea. It taught us both not to judge people without knowing their circumstances. John: An extra dose of humility. A better understanding of the developing world.
Would you recommend volunteering to other people?
Janet: Definitely yes. You’ll never forget those two years. John: My experience was one which is a dream to many: two years of teaching excellent students, being fascinated by research, no administration and no telephone. I recommend an extra glass of wine on a Sunday afternoon as retirement approaches.
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